Adrian Tregoning

The Riviersonderend – Back of the Moon Section

The largest fresh water reservoir in the Western Cape is the Theewaterskloof Dam. The exit of this massive dam (for South African standards) releases into the Riviersonderend. I had never been here before so was keen to see the dam, as well as the river which people spoke highly about. Because this section is so heavily dependent on water release, it is not run very often. In fact, it had only been once (I think) over the past three years. We had been having good rains and the water was overflowing into the river, so it was good to go. The only downside if that every man and his dog was there that day and fifteen of us set onto the river...

1.7 km below the dam wall is the put in spot. We made it down easily enough and then Hennie’s girlfriend/wife(?) went to drive down Meyer’s Vito to the take out. This trip was actually before my four day Doring River trip but because I didn’t take many photos I was waiting for Niell Taylor’s shots and hence didn’t publish this article. Let me not beat about the bush and state that I hate paddling in big groups. I cannot stand it for several reasons that will become clear just now. But I was keen to see how the river looked so I tagged along at the back for the entire trip.

Niell Taylor on the way to the river.

The overflow of the dam wall. It doesn't look like much water but believe me it's plenty. Photo by Niell Taylor.

The remainder of the spillway and a MASSIVE keeper hole at the bottom. Photo by Niell Taylor.

The top of the dam, not the put in. Note the sign in English and Afrikaans (at the top). Not much difference, except for a space... Photo by Niell Taylor.

The weir just above the put in. You could run this on the right, but set up proper safety and be very sure. It has a powerful recirculating eddy on river right too, so watch out.

As people kitted up, others were already on the river and eager to get down. Once everyone was on the group proceeded and went down the first rapid. It seems it had been run by several people already before the rest of us even got there. Scouting wasn’t necessary as it was a straight forward rapid that could be boat scouted but already there was carnage. If memory serves me correctly, two people had already swum. No problem, these things happen to absolutely anyone. Before the poor victims could even get back into their boats, part of the group went down the next rapid. Excellent group dynamics. I stayed behind with a chap called Keith and thought it wise as he had just swum the first drop. There was a slight right bend with a tiny rapid and then a much longer, slightly steeper drop. Before I even arrived the entire group had pretty much gone down. As I was the last person down I started to paddle down and could see two or three people in the distance, and William and Keith close by. Suddenly William got caught up on the left and headed straight into some strainers. I was the only one to see this and also the only one even remotely close by, everyone else was either two hundred metres away or totally out of sight around the next right bend! Immediately I eddied out on river left. From my vantage point I could see William and was about to climb out of my boat and run upstream when he got unstuck and came down the rapid. Close call, and no one even knew! It was incredible irritated at that stage already.

The put in and our cars in the background.

The very first rapid. Straight forward and simple with several options.

When I got to the bottom I saw that Keith had swum. It was a really fun rapid with one or two holes which would definitely issue some justice, but were really easy to avoid. The volume was very good and I don’t think I had hit any rocks, which was a real bonus. Again I stayed with him as the few people that had remained, filtered off. A small group of us arrived at the next rapid and because of the rushed manner in which the trip had been run thus far it seemed to rattle a few cages and the odd person portaged it. Of course when I got there almost everyone had run it blind already. It had a pinnacle rock at the top which had a little bit of water going over it. I dropped down on the right, through a hole and then just straight down; quite a fun rapid.

The rapid with the pinnacle rock. Quite a good rapid, stay away from river left.

At this stage the group was somewhat joined again and I think it was me that quickly checked out the line for the next which turned out to be simple. Everyone ran it without problems, I think. But before the whole group had run it, several others went on ahead to the next rapid. I mean, why wait? Really! I wondered how many people had throw bags, let alone knew how to safely use them.

Just down from here was an excellent play wave and I then wished I had my play boat with me. Within less than a minute, I think it was, everyone charged off again into the sunset. I wondered if there were topless bar ladies and thick, juicy steaks waiting at the take out. Perhaps they knew something I didn’t. As I approached the next rapid I saw two people, Meyer and Richard heading down into it. We had been told that this final rapid was something to scout and I wondered where they were going. They ran it without scouting and I believe Meyer got beaten quite nicely. The vegetation was very thick, with water flowing through the Palmiet channels. Several people were already standing on a large rock closer to the rapid and I thought I best go and have a look.

The top hole which looks much worse that what it actually is. I would definitely not want to swim this rapid though, the rocks are very sharp and jagged! This rapid is called Helter Skelter.

It was tricky getting to the rock as I waded through deep, vegetation infested channels, interspersed with rocks. Eventually, when I got there, the rapid look interesting. There was a hole at the top which, from my vantage point, didn’t look like a nice place to go. It would have required more work to get further down and given the fact that my shoulder was definitely not up to this sort of run at that stage and coupled with the ragged group, I decided to immediately portage. As I walked off and announced I was going to portage, Stuart came back to me and asked if he could have my throw bag... I gave it to him. Someone commented to me that more than half the people standing on that rock shouldn’t even consider running that rapid. Hmmm, I wondered how it looked from downstream. I didn’t actually want to be involved in this cowboy trip so was happy with my decision to portage.

The portage wasn’t that great. I walked through some irritating wattles (an alien tree species from Australia) and got down quite far on the right. Because the level was so high, there was a small stream flowing next to the right bank. As I stood there, wondering which way to go, a spider about the size of my palm quickly crawled under the peak of my Sweet Strutter (helmet) and stared back at me!!!! I didn’t stare back for long and unclipped the helmet and shook him off all within about two seconds! JEESH! Damn spiders! I decided I would cross the stream, while holding onto my boat, it was choked with strainers and there was a drop just downstream. As carefully as I could, I started wading across but then my boat tipped over and filled with water. Of course I had air bags in but it didn’t help and the force of the water was too much. I had to let go and then watched as my boat moved downstream. Because I was thrown off balance I lurched forward and swam for a tree, which I managed to get a hold of. Things were not looking good and I was alone too. I left my paddled on the left side, swam back across and rescued the boat which had luckily been caught up just before the drop! The boat was emptied, and I returned to cross again. This time without the paddle it was a little easier. When the water reached my waist I could no longer stand and hold onto the boat so I jumped forward again and managed to secure myself onto a branch, still clutching the boat. My throw bag which I had given away would have come in very handy and I was most annoyed at that stage! In fact, more than annoyed! After some more bashing through the bush I found the middle channel and put in there, paddling the last drop. Very glad to have finished that little exercise.

The bottom of Helter Skelter. Some cool scenery on this little section too.

Abrie Swanepoel coming down Helter Skelter.

It was then that I could see the bottom of the rapid. It looked quite fun. But I had no regrets about portaging. My doctor said I could only paddle by December if I was lucky, and there I was, paddling, again, on the 13^th of September! There was every possibility that I could make a mistake and get injured very quickly. That idea didn’t appeal to me. The rapid is actually not that difficult but a little pushy and fast. The hole at the top which looked so bad wasn’t really that bad and there were three ways to get around or through it. I watched some of the guys paddle down and no one made it upright... I can’t remember how many, but a lot of other people portaged too, taking the high route on the far right, not trying to cross the stream that I did. They reported that their portage was very bad, with a narrow ledge needing to be crossed. Just as well I didn’t go there! After this there are one or two little drops and then the end. You can take out at the pump station if it’s low, or paddle around the right bend and into a little spot on the right.

Helter Skelter as seen from river left looking up. There is a hole at the top that is easy to miss left or better right (sneak it) or even straight through. Then a lateral at the end and you're finished. Photo by Niell Taylor.

Great photo. 7 guys, one throw bag, which was mine anyway. Hopefully there were more and I'm not seeing them! :-)  Photo by Niell Taylor.

Adrian Tregoning finishing off the portage and paddling this last part of a middle channel. Photo by Niell Taylor.

Abrie Swanepoel nicely on line at the top but messing it up at the bottom. Photos by Niell Taylor.

Stuart MacMillan looking for rocks... Photo by Niell Taylor.

Rowan Walpole (left) and Adrian Tregoning (right) chilling in an eddy. Photo by Niell Taylor.

What happened then was that we sat there for about 3 hours as there was a problem with the shuttle, including our cars being locked in at the put in and our driver thinking we were already dead and had reported to the police. I won’t get into details but it wasn’t that much fun and there was this one dude there that came around and wanted to start a fight with us. He was very drunk and he would not have gone far with about five or six of us but still he tried. Trying to aggravate us and making racist remarks. Eventually he left without anything needing to be done. Then, a few weeks later, we came back here and this same dude was now very sober. He announced to Alex Rose and Rowan Walpole (who did the shuttle) that there was a group here that tried to cause trouble with him a few weeks ago and was very upset. What an absolute liar! So if anyone is reading this, note that we did everything in our power to diffuse the situation and nothing ever happened. We wouldn’t be that stupid to take this chap out and in the process possibly wreck the opportunity for future groups to paddle this stretch. I was glad when the day was over and kicked myself for not splitting up into three smaller groups. Large groups never follow any sort of safe dynamics and are always a recipe for disaster as people try to outdo each other in the front and race ahead. Thankfully nothing happened that day.

More river side scenery.

Watch out when moving around on the river. Corne' van Daalen jumped into an eddy and managed to cut is shin properly. This was about two hours later and still bleeding.

But don't worry, his wife stiched him up on the kitchen table at home!!!! CRAZY! :-)

The end of a very long wait.

The wind blowing a bit on the Theewaterskloof Dam.

Video footage courtesy Niell Taylor!

The section is only 2.4 km long, or short, should I say! It was about five or six fun rapids and is probably best run twice, given the effort in getting there. Be warned that the rocks are very sharp. They will eat your boat, and they will hurt you should you decided to go upside down and check out the fish. Have fun!

Photography by: Adrian Tregoning unless otherwise stated. A big thanks to Niell Taylor for his photos!

Words by: Adrian Tregoning.

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